You’d think there would be more wine bars around Nob Hill and Union Square. There’s plenty of people with money. I imagine it’s because of the enormous cost of buying or leasing property in that part of town. But a new wine bar just opened up near the corner of Post and Taylor streets, and from what I’ve seen so far, I’m pulling for it to succeed.
The name of the venue is The Hidden Vine, and the name fits. Owned and operated by a husband-and-wife team named David and Angela Cahill, it’s tucked away in an alley, all but invisible to the casual passer-by. Yet it’s actually a great location because the alley is Cosmo Place, the same small corridor shared by Le Colonial. The Hidden Vine is only feet away from the well-known Vietnamese restaurant, and the perfect place to grab a pre- or post-dinner glass of wine.
The Hidden Vine is behind the lobby of the Fitzgerald Hotel (the wine bar’s former name was the F. Scott – get it?). It’s easy to miss – you can’t see it from Post or Taylor, and if you enter through the alley, you have to walk down a flight of stairs to get to the bar. Only a small sign on the sidewalk of Taylor Streetpoints the way. There are signs on the side of the building, but you can easily overlook them. To me, this low profile is Hidden Vine’s strong suit – a well-kept secret hidden in plain sight.
Once inside, it’s easy to forget you’re in the heart of bustling San Francisco. A fireplace, plush chairs, couches and a couple of cozy corner nooks give it an intimate, speakeasy feel. The atmosphere also makes it welcoming for a diverse crowd. For the grand opening, I arrived in jeans, but saw plenty of others in more glamorous attire, and we were all completely comfortable.
The room was packed for the grand opening, though on most nights, it’s easy to find an open seat. You’re likely to see Dave and/or Angela tending bar, and they choose the wines on the menu themselves, so they can give you plenty of help with a selection. Cheese courses and other appetizers are also available, along with wine recommendations. And if you buy a bottle to take home, they take 30% off the price. Beer is available if you want it, but here, why would you?
I tasted a lot of wines at the event, so let’s get started. Prices listed are those at Hidden Vine.
Flight 1 – Argentina
Piedra Negra 2000 Malbec Reserve
Aromas of earth and barnyard give way to plum, with some cedar and cigar box flavors on a long finish. A chewy, dark, dense wine that probably needs a big steak or meat dish to stand up to it. $14 per glass/$50 per bottle.
Barricas 2003 Malbec
This is a delicious wine from the Mendoza region of Argentina, whose reputation for excellent wines is growing fast. The Barricas had a subdued nose, but was much more interesting on the palate, with jammy licorice flavors and fresh raspberries. The tannins are very smooth and long lasting. It reminds me of an Australian shiraz, though less exuberant and more restrained. $6 per glass/$18 per bottle. Great bottle price for a wine bar.
Crios de Susana Balbo 2003
An expressive nose of mint, menthol and flowers, but the flavors in this cabernet sauvignon weren’t terribly complex. I got mostly tannins and oak, but not much fruit. There’s a little currant, and later I picked up some lingering caramel. $8 per glass/$25 per bottle.
Vina Cornejo Costas 2004 “Don Rodolfo” Tannat
From the Cafayate Valley, this wine was my first experience with the tannat grape. In the past, I’ve read wine reviews where the critic mentioned a wine smelling or tasting of petrol. I could never imagine what that was like until I had this wine. It was on the nose, along with eucalyptus. It was also on the palate. The wine is silky smooth, with nice blueberry flavors, but the petrol thing, along with an unpleasant medicinal finish, didn’t work for me. $8 per glass/$25 per bottle.
Flight 2 – California
Logan 2002 Pinot Noir Sleepy Hollow Vineyard
I’m generally not a fan of either pinot noir or cheese, but upon Dave’s recommendation, I tried them together and liked both. The Logan pinot is from the Santa Lucia Highlands, and the strawberries and earth on the nose are a nice prelude to the bright cherries and zing of acidity that you get on the palate. The accompanying cheese was from Cowgirl Creamery up in Point Reyes. It’s a triple-cream, washed-rind, fully-flavored cheese made from organic cow's milk and aged six weeks. Paired with the cheese, the Logan was clean and refreshing. $11 per glass/$34 per bottle.
Cartlidge & Brown 2002 Zinfandel
Bright blueberry and briar patch on the nose, this zin has nice expressive cherry and raspberry jam. At $5 per glass and $15 per bottle, it’s a solid wine bar selection.
Atlas Peak 2001 Sangiovese Napa Valley
This wine is fruity, fun and easy to drink. It has a smoky nose and coats the palate with fresh berry fruit. $7 per glass/$22 per bottle.
Flight 3 – California vs. Argentina
This was really a mini-flight, as I had already tasted the Argentinean wines.
Duncan Peak 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon Mendocino County
The assertive flavors of the Vella Cheese Company Dry Jack Special Select matched up well with this medium-bodied cab. An oak and butterscotch-y nose is followed by well-integrated tannins. I think the cheese pairing really helped prop this one up. $10 per glass/$29 per bottle.
Vinum Pets 2003 Petite Sirah Wilson Vineyard Clarksburg
I smelled chewing tobacco and stewed fruit on this one. More tobacco on the palate, along with hard-ish tannins. Interesting, but not for me. Forgot to get pricing on this one.
The Hidden Vine
620 Post Street
San Francisco, CA 94109
415.674.3567
www.thehiddenvine.com
Hours of operation
Monday Closed
Tuesday 4 pm-11 pm
Wednesday 4 pm-11 pm
Thursday 4 pm-11 pm
Friday 4 pm-2 am
Saturday 4 pm-2 am
Sunday 4 pm-10 pm
not bad. a little more than double retail even on the low priced wines. and good picks, except for the atlas peak sangiovese. i like cartlige & browne for value.
Posted by: enoch choi | March 09, 2005 at 09:28 PM
They offer another wine there called Bell. It's in Napa Valley, and I decided to go there because Angela spoke so well of the wine. The guy there (I think his name is Don) was very nice to me. And their syrah and cab were excellent. If you stop by Hidden Vine and have a chance to talk to Angela or Dave, ask them about some of their favorite local wines and wineries. They'll be happy to share their thoughts.
Posted by: Jason | March 10, 2005 at 03:23 AM
I've been hearing opening of wine bars in great numbers lately, I guess, the government should lift age restriction so that we at 16 should also have the chance to go to wine bars :P
Posted by: John | March 08, 2007 at 04:33 AM