Drink Up!

Holiday Wines for Parties, Gifts & Mealtime

Here's an article I wrote for the local paper about fun holiday wines:

By Jason Bullock

Special to Food

Wine seems to take on added significance during the holidays. Parties, gift baskets, the holiday table – it’s the golden guest that never wears out its welcome.

Maybe it’s the fact that wine so often plays a supporting role in the best moments of our lives. Maybe it’s the intimate ritual of popping the cork on a special bottle.

Or maybe we all just need a drink.

With that in mind, here are a few ideas for your holiday wine shopping. Each of these wines is special in one way or another. Each is specifically suited to the things we all enjoy at this time of year: parties, gift giving and eating.

Perhaps most importantly, they’re all available locally, so you can pick them up during your holiday shopping. Cheers!

Party Wines

When you arrive at a holiday get-together, nothing says “I’m here for the free grub” like a cheap bottle of swill. I won’t name names, but you know that cute little wine label with a hopping marsupial from a certain large island country in the Southern Hemisphere? Yeah. Cheap. And the host knows it.

Come on, you’re better than that. Show some holiday spirit and spend a couple extra bucks on wines that are festive, delicious and affordable.

Ménage à Trois Red Table Wine 2005

$8.99-10.99

The holidays are about sharing, after all, and this blend brings together three willing bedfellows: Zinfandel, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Ménage is a playful, fruity, unassuming wine. You’ll find generous red cherry, vanilla and oak, with a little Zinfandel zip thrown in. Those carefree college days are behind you, but a little experimentation with this threesome will give you a cheap thrill.

Where to find it: Cork & Bottle, Matherne’s Supermarket, We’re Cooking, Whole Foods

Angove’s Red Belly Black Shiraz 2004

$10.99

Aussie wines, with their bold, audacious flavors and value prices, really are perfect party wines. The trick is navigating the ocean of bottles that offer up cutesy animal labels and little else.

So how does the Red Belly Black fit in at the holiday wine zoo? Cute label – check (if you can call the red-bellied black snake, one of

Australia

’s deadliest, cute). Bargain price – roger that. Fortunately, the Red Belly Black Shiraz is also a pleasure to drink. Its aromas of black fruit, black pepper, a little caramel and a bit of alcoholic heat are followed by flavors of red cherry and spice.

It has a syrupy texture and pretty good structure, with tannins that are present yet tucked away in the background. Fun, approachable, not bad to look at – pretty much the same thing you’re hoping to find at the party anyway, right?

Where to find it: Calandro’s Supermarket

The Other White 2005

$12.99

Cool labels are a great way to draw attention to a particular bottling as long as the wine inside measures up. You’d hate to think a winery spent more on marketing than it did on producing good wine.

The Other, with its blend of 55% Chardonnay, 35% Sauvignon Blanc and 10% Viognier, combines creative winemaking with an eye-catching label design that is flirty without being goofy.

What makes blends intriguing is trying to sort out which grape contributes which flavor, aroma and texture. The Other is light and clean, with citrus, honeysuckle, peach and stones. It finds a nice balance between Sauvignon Blanc’s acidity and the roundness of Chardonnay and Viognier. A smart sipper and a delicious aperitif.

Where to find it: Calandro’s Supermarket (

Government St.

), Cork & Bottle, Southdowns Discount Liquor

Cerdon du Bugey Non-Vintage Rosé Sparkling Wine

$18.99

With LSU going to the Sugar Bowl, party with a wine that has some sweetness to it. And since most partygoers don’t pay much attention to the wording on the labels as they pour themselves a glass, you won’t have to worry much about tripping over the pronunciation of this French gem (which is “cer-DOHN du BOO-jhee,” by the way).

You won’t find many wines better suited to holiday celebrations than the Bugey. Its beautiful salmon color sets it apart from other bubblies, as does the fact that it is a demi-sec wine (which literally translates to “semi-dry,” though it is in fact sweet). Most sparkling wine is brut. Brut wines are dry, which is the opposite of sweet.

Combine this with chocolate cake and you’ll find religion.

Where to find it: Calandro’s Supermarket, Churchill’s,

Cork

& Bottle, Matherne’s Supermarket, Maxwell’s Market, Southdowns Discount Liquor, We’re Cooking

Gift Wines

Robert Foley Charbono 2004

$34

If you’re looking to impress the wine geek in your life, this is a smart choice for several reasons. Bob Foley is a rock star in

California

winemaking, excelling for many years as winemaker at the renowned Pride Mountain Vineyards.

Foley also makes highly coveted wines under his eponymous label. At around $34, the Charbono, a red varietal, is at the low end of the Foley price spectrum, but very easily holds its own in quality.

In the glass, it smells of new oak, blackberries, toffee, baking spice, menthol and eucalyptus. Anchored by smooth, lingering tannins, it reveals rich flavors of red and black currant, blueberries, blackberries and anise. There is power and subtlety here, and it’s killer.

Charbono is also interesting because it’s such an obscure grape. Less than 100 acres are planted in all of

California

(compared with well over 100,000 acres of Chardonnay), so it’s very much an “insider’s” wine. It was Charbono that inspired Foley to become a winemaker, when he sampled it as a teenager at Inglenook winery (now owned by Francis Ford Coppola).

Because of its tiny production, I doubt you’ll be seeing Charbono making any star turns the way Pinot Noir did in “Sideways.” But if you’re looking for a creative alternative to Napa Cab that still packs a punch, this is it.

Where to find it: Calandro’s Supermarket, Cork & Bottle

Rocca Family Vineyards Syrah 2002

$42.99

Some wines just look like great gifts. Though it’s ultimately what’s in the bottle that counts, there’s something to be said about presentation.

The Rocca is solid, inside and out. Its heavy, substantial bottle and elegant label design are all the wrapping you’ll need because the real gift is waiting inside.

The holidays are a time for a few indulgences, and this Yountville Syrah embodies the lush, layered textures that make

Napa

Valley

wines so powerful. Rich and concentrated, with loads of ripe currant, cherry, roasted meat and oak, this is an easy pick for fans of bold

California

wines.

Where to find it: Cork & Bottle, We’re Cooking

Chateau Doisy-Védrines Sauternes 2001

$25.69

It is ironic that Sauternes (“saw-TERN”) is one of the world’s great luxury wines, considering that it is produced by allowing white wine grapes Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle to wither and become infected with a fungus called Botrytis cinerea.

And yet the process, hardly a dignified one for the grapes as they shrivel into brown pulp, is known as “noble rot” – and results in an elixir that counts Thomas Jefferson as one of its biggest fans.

Noble rot causes the grapes to shed water, resulting in intense, concentrated flavors and a high sugar content. The Doisy-Védrines is thick and unctuous, with intoxicating aromas of honey and tropical melon fruit. This is liquid candy for grown-ups, and will continue to sing for years to come.

With its gorgeous golden hue, it’s easy to pop a purple bow on this wine and give it to a Tiger fan (or wrap it in black ribbon for a Saints supporter) who has both a sweet tooth and a taste for dessert wine.

Where to find it: Calandro’s Supermarket (

Perkins Rd.

), Churchill’s, Cork & Bottle, Matherne’s Supermarket, Maxwell’s Market

Koehler Estate Syrah Santa Ynez Valley 2003

$28.99

Leather and Meat. It would have been such an inspired name for an ‘80s hair-metal band. Instead, it’s a pretty good way to describe the nose on this Santa Barbara Syrah, which also exhibits cherries, tobacco and a slight medicinal quality.

With the elegance and structure of a cooler climate wine, this is a great choice for deer and duck hunters. A nice bit of backstrap is just what this Syrah calls for.

Try this nifty trick with the Koehler. There’s a lot of white space on the label, so instead of using a greeting card (which will get tossed anyway), write your holiday wishes directly on the bottle.

At the very least, the recipients will think of you fondly while drinking the wine. If you’re lucky, they’ll invite you over for a glass. Now there’s a gift that gives back.

Where to find it: Calandro’s Supermarket (

Perkins Rd.

), Cork & Bottle

Mealtime Wines

Mönchhof Robert Eymael Estate Riesling 2004

$13.99

A charmer with lots of fruit, this is an excellent match for ham or turkey. Wonderful aromas of crushed and wet stones, white peaches, lemon zest and honeysuckle emerge from the glass, accompanied by flavors of honey, stone fruit, lemon and a touch of sweetness. Not as much acidity as you might expect from a German Riesling, yet still lively.

The Mönchhof Riesling is bottled under a screw cap. Though they are rather unromantic, screw caps provide a more effective seal than cork. It is estimated that 5-10 percent of wine corks are affected by molds that, while harmless to humans, ruin the wine.

Screw caps also tend to preserve the wine longer once it’s been opened. If you don’t finish the whole bottle at one sitting, just keep it refrigerated. It’ll keep pretty well for a few days.

So while you are encouraged to harken fondly to memories of Boone’s Farm and Bartles & Jaymes, remember that screw caps have come a long way since then.

Where to find it: Cork & Bottle, We’re Cooking

Andeluna Winemaker’s Selection Malbec 2005

$12.99

During duck and deer season, look to

Argentina

for wine pairing options. Malbec is traditionally known as a blending grape, often added to Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot to provide additional structure. Yet in

Argentina

and

Chile

, it’s coming into its own. The Argentineans’ meat-based diet matches beautifully with the hearty, rugged reds emerging from their vineyards.

This wine displays aromas of mushrooms, deep red currant, earth, game, dark chocolate, mint and eucalyptus. Muscular and rough around the edges, it exhibits flavors of earth and dark fruit, with some tobacco on the finish. For those unfamiliar with Malbec, this is an excellent introduction.

Where to find it: Calandro’s Supermarket, Churchill’s, Cork & Bottle, Matherne’s Supermarket, Maxwell’s Market, Southdowns Discount Liquor, We’re Cooking

Maysara Jamsheed Pinot Noir 2004

$27.99

Oregon Pinot Noir is rapidly gaining popularity, especially in the

Willamette

Valley

, so the days of finding well-made Pinot in the $25 ballpark are growing short.

Pinot is the great holiday diplomat – delicate enough to please white-wine drinkers, yet with sufficient complexity and flavor to appease red wine lovers. And it’s nimble enough to complement the smorgasbord of holiday foods, from turkey and dressing to duck.

Nestled in the

Willamette

Valley

sub-appellation of McMinnville, the Maysara suggests spice, a whiff of cigar box and cedar, and a slight candied character. Dried cherry flavors would probably make this a nice fit for cranberry sauce.

Where to find it: Cork & Bottle, Churchill’s, Matherne’s Supermarket

Kathryn Kennedy Lateral 2003

$34.99

Inspired by the Bordeaux wines of St. Emilion, the 2003 Lateral is a blend of 47 percent Merlot, 25 percent Cabernet Franc, 25 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 3 percent Petite Verdot. Like many top

Bordeaux

, it also tends to need food to reveal everything it’s got.

The wine exudes dark coffee, dried fruit, spice, blackberry and dusty oak, with firm tannins that will hold up to a hearty meat dish. It is a brooding wine, revealing just enough to show it’s got more to give. With a holiday meal, it might do just that.

Where to find it: Calandro’s Supermarket, Churchill’s, Cork & Bottle, Matherne’s Supermarket, Maxwell’s Market, We’re Cooking, Whole Foods

###

Buoncristiani 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

Wow. This is real, real, real good wine. It smells great -- I get deep, luxurious currant and roses, plus a bit of sweet new oak. There's a throatiness that's really cool, like you made wine from Kathleen Turner's voice and a Mustang Shelby GT. The texture is thick and dusty -- rich, vibrant fruit that just sings. Surprisingly, this paired really well with a simple spaghetti and meat sauce.

The blend is 82% cab, 15% malbec and 3% merlot. I didn't realize that at first, but now that I know, I really see what each varietal contributes to the blend. The cab gives it wonderful weight and structure, the malbec adds that rustic edge (maybe that's the throatiness?) and the merlot delivers that nice fruit. Too bad they only made 300 cases of this -- I'd love to have more.

Calix Cellars 2004 Syrah Masked Man Vineyard Napa Valley

I picked up a bottle of this in Napa last week. I enjoyed the Calix Cellars Parmalee-Hill Vineyard syrah a couple years ago at Butterfly Restaurant in San Francisco, and wanted to see if I would enjoy this one as much.

You're damn right I did.

I waited until the very last sip of this wine to write this tasting note, which is unfortunate because it has so much going for it. The flavors are inviting -- some classic syrah gaminess, plus some dark chocolate, bright currant and new oak. Very mild tannins. A very fun drink. I think I paid about $35. That's a great price for this wine.

Cos d'Estournel 2001 St. Estephe, France

I'm quickly going through my half-case of this wine. It's pretty good, and I think I'll have polished off my stash before the wine even hits its stride. It has very nice aromas of graphite and leather, with rich fruit peeking through as well. The palate is tight and focused, with a little bit of gaminess to it. Very intriguing.

Karl Lawrence 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

Karl Lawrence is a perennial favorite of mine. The '02 is no exception. Deep, saturated color. Rich aromas of cedar, cherries and red fruit (maybe cranberry?), a little tobacco, burnt toast, new oak. Excellent tannin structure that grips without overpowering. More red fruit on the palate. I'd like to see what this tastes like tomorrow, but I'm taking the last sips of my half bottle. A winner.

Five Vintners 2002 Syrah Napa Valley

This is a wonderful medium-bodied wine, and at about $16, a steal for the price. A dusty, herbal, gamey, blueberry licorice nose gives way to more dark berry fruit and thick smoked meat and some oak on the palate. Smooth and balanced, with tannins that stay nicely tucked away in the background. A terrific expression of Napa Valley syrah.

DeWaal 2003 Pinotage Stellenbosch South Africa

Another fun little find at Hidden Vine. An intriguing nose of coffee grounds, tar/asphalt and burnt caramel. The flavors echoed the tar and asphalt, as well as black tea, earth, smoked meat and a chunky ragged quality. South African wines are certainly unique, and worth checking out to see if they match your palate.

Sean Thackery 2003 Andromeda Pinot Noir Devil's Gulch Ranch

I was relaxing with a late-night glass of wine at Hidden Vine last weekend when I was joined at the bar by two gentlemen from a well-known local restaurant, Fleur de Lys, and a friend of theirs from Michael Mina. Hidden Vine seems to have become a favorite hangout for serious wine lovers who work in the local restaurant scene. Rock on to owners Dave and Angela! I love giving props to these guys, and I'm glad to see industry people flocking here. Sigh...and to say I knew them when...Anyway, I struck up a conversation with Marcus and Lance, the guys from Fleur de Lys, and Jennifer from Michael Mina. They were all exceptionally nice. I mentioned that I grew up in Louisiana, and they all took great interest in the future of New Orleans. It's so interesting how people in the restaurant industry react to post-Katrina New Orleans, and so encouraging to see them express such a sincere hope and concern for the city's future. As someone who grew up not too far from the Crescent City, it's really uplifting.

What was also very cool was sharing a bottle of Andromeda with these guys. It was my first experience with Sean Thackery wine, and quite a memorable one. I didn't know it was pinot noir when I first tasted it, which was probably for the best -- I've been somewhat down on pinot lately. But this one gave me reason to hope: its nose was a wonderful perfume, and the palate was a smooth, candied cherry. Just beautiful. Thanks to Marcus, Lance and Jennifer for the experience!

Olives at W New York

I just got back from New York a few days ago and enjoyed some wonderful dining. A Todd English restaurant, Olives was a clear standout. Take a date there -- he/she will be impressed. It's got a cool youngish vibe going, with pretty people and elegant decor. It's very dimly lit, which made the menu somewhat difficult to read, but whatever. We started out with the fig and prosciutto flatbread, and even though I don't like figs, I enjoyed this (once I flicked the figs off). Our entrees included crispy Long Island duck and a Niman Ranch pork shank (hereafter to be known as the Meat Tower of Destruction). I'm generally not one to appreciate presentation, but as a guy, I found this impressive. The pork was served with the shank positioned vertically. The whole thing was maybe a foot high, so had it toppled, it probably would have splattered cabbage risotto and Pommery-cider glaze over half the citizenry in the five-burrough metroplex. The meal was paired with a bottle of 2002 Culler Syrah -- elegant and nicely structured, its rich dark berry fruit worked beautifully. Joe, the sommelier, was very friendly, knowledgeable and fun to talk to, and the overall service was excellent too. I love New York.

Distillery 209 Gin (yes, gin!)

I had a bad gin experience in college and have avoided the stuff ever since. But this brand is bringing me back in a big way. A friend of mine works for Distillery 209, which is a new gin brand created by Leslie Rudd (of Rudd Estate and Dean & Deluca fame). I've had several opportunities to try it at events, so when my friend asked me to judge a bartending contest to see who could make the best 209-inspired drink, I figured "Why not? Free drinks." Off I went to Lucid, a gallery/bar near Union Square. Fantastic venue, by the way -- beautifully lit, with great artwork for sale. A very natural fusion of gallery and bar. Downstairs is open and spacious, with room for larger pieces on the walls. Didn't get a chance to hang out down there on my last visit, but I will next time.

On to the gin. Clean, smooth and fragrant, I've had the chance to try it in martinis and mojitos, and have not been disappointed. My favorite at the bartending contest was a pomagranate martini. We quickly came up with a new name for it: Porn Star Pom. Awesome flavor and a beautiful color that both men and women would feel comfortable ordering at the bar without looking silly. I'm a dyed-in-the-wool wine freak, but if I'm ever in the mood for something else, it'll be this.